THE VOYAGE

OF THE

TRITON

By Nora Buttle

The Wesley Historical Society (New Zealand)
Proceedings Vol. 22. Nos. 1 & 2
December, 1965

Drawing and Plans of the “Triton”.

A Lecture given on 7th May, 1965, to commemorate the 125th Anniversary of the arrival of the Methodist Missionary Ship “Triton”
at
Hokianga, North Auckland, at 10 p.m., 7th May, 1840.

ACKNOWLEGEMENTS

Grateful thanks are due to descendants of New Zealand missionaries who arrived on the “Triton”, for donating almost the entire cost of publishing this booklet.

Foreword

This lecture has been compiled from the journals and diaries of the Revs. Thomas Buddle, John Aldred and George Buttle; from copies of the Early Missionaries' Correspondence, especially the copy of the Rev. H. H. Turton's detailed account of day-to-day life on the “Triton”; and from copies of the Missionary Reports in the Methodist Magazines of 1838-39-40; all of which are held at Trinity Theological College Library, Auckland. Also from the Early Methodist Records held at the Alexander Turnbull Library, Wellington.

I wish to acknowledge my deep gratitude to the Rev. F. W. Hames, who made it possible for me to have access to these early records, both at Trinity and Turnbull Libraries.

And to the Rev. L. R. M. Gilmore for his infinite patience with my many long delays, and for his willingness to undertake for me the work of the publishing of this lecture.

N.B.

THE MAIDEN VOYAGE OF THE METHODIST MISSIONARY

CENTENARY SHIP “TRITON”

CHAPTER ONE

Preparations for the Voyage

Annual Church Conference has always been, and we trust still is, considered a highlight in the life of the Methodist Church, and the Conference of our British Methodism of the year 1839 is a long-to-be-remembered one, especially, we hope, by New Zealand Methodists. For that year, 1839, marked the Centenary of British Methodism, and the Conference that assembled at Liverpool in August (Monday, 5th August, to be exact) was a large one, numbering 500 members, and a spirit of eager enthusiasm pervaded all sessions. Under the leadership of Rev. Theophilus Lessey as President and Rev. Robert Newton as Secretary, great decisions were made. In true Methodist fashion, Committees had been at work during 1838, preparing plans and schemes for a worthy celebration of this Centenary; and of course one suggestion was “A Thanksgiving Fund”! The Committee's Recommendation in this respect and the Appropriation Scheme as to how the Fund (£160,000) should be apportioned were carried unanimously and enthusiastically; and it is Clause 3 of this Appropriation Scheme which is of interest to us tonight - it reads:

We remember that the N.Z. Mission Field was still quite new; it was not 20 years since the work was commenced (1822), but so rapidly was it spreading that the need for more workers was constantly being stressed by those on the field, so that the Mission Secretaries at Headquarters felt that now, with the purchase of a ship in sight, here was one solution of the problem of sending more and more missionaries to the far distant fields.

Before Conference is over a Selection Committee is appointed; Men of nautical mind, with one of the Mission secretaries and an Agent at Lloyds; and getting quickly to work they very soon find a suitable ship and make the purchase. Also, before we leave Conference we must meet the Missionaries who are appointed for the Polynesian fields:-

Revs. Thos. Buddle, John Skevington and Henry Hanson Turton, who are married men, and three single men — Gideon Smales, John Aldred and George Buttle; these six are for N.Z.; with Rev. & Mrs. Williams for Fiji; Rev. & Mrs. Wilson, and Rev. Mr. Kevern for Tonga (then always known as Friendly Islands), whilst travelling with them as far as South Africa will be Rev. & Mrs. Archhill with their family of six and Rev. & Mrs. Appleyard; 24 in all.

Conference over and the ship, “The Triton”, purchased it is thought wise that there should be no delay in getting her away on her journey. It is decided that she sail from Bristol early in September, and that the Valedictory service be held there in St. Philip's Chapel on the evening of Wednesday, 4th September. Meandme, there is much to be done; for the passengers it means the preparation for the journey; the collecting of good and chattels for the new home in a new land, farewell gatherings, goodbyes to home and friends and all the other hundred-and-one etcetera associated with such a time. As for the ship — we haven't looked at her yet. “She's a brigantine of 119 tons register, built in Bristol just 2 years ago, 1837, and used in the sugar trade with the West Indies.”

Our first reaction naturally is concerning her size — 119 tons for such a voyage! And true it is that at the time of her purchase the same doubt was expressed by some — but “when it is realised that she will have to navigate shallow waters and work her way amongst the coral reefs of the Pacific it will be seen that she is quite large enough” was the answer given. Her interior quarters however, are far too small, for as she had hitherto been used only in the Mediterranean trade she lacked sufficient cabin room for the passengers on the long voyages now ahead of her, and there was but scant accommodation for the crew. So the necessary alterations are put in hand at once (thanks to the £3000 allotted for outfit, etc.!) and a lower deck is laid to add the required cabin room, and also allow space for cargo. When all is completed it is considered that the ‘Triton” affords excellent accommodation, her cabins being described as “roomy” considering the size of the ship!! “The (dining saloon measures 8ft by l8ft, and here arrangements are made for two of the single missionaries to sleep on what were called “sofas” in those days! Every berth has a patent light and from the three skylights there can be a constant current of air. Arrangements are made for a shower-bath, and near that room for two drip-stones and one of Robins patent filters (our imaginations must get to work here!!).

On the “Triton's” deck a neat round house has been built for first and second officers and a good canopy has been put over the whole “to defend the helmsman from the sun and rain.” Attention also is given to the ship's nautical equipment, for this must be of a kind to meet all possible exigencies. “She has therefore been stripped, felted and coppered. She has three new sets of sails, and several bolts of spare canvas; three lower anchors and chains, two grapnels. Also three boats, two of which are quite new, and through the kindness of a friend in Cornwall she has been furnished with Trengrouse's life apparatus so that humanly speaking she has everything that can be desired.” Oh! yes, provided we don't forget the most important of all — her Captain and Crew, all of whom have been carefully selected for this voyage. Not only has their prowess and ability as seamen been considered, but their attachment to the Methodist Society and Missionary interest, for their ship is henceforth to be known as the “Methodist Missionary Ship, Triton”.

Captain James Beatty is in command, a seaman of sterling worth, having “gone to sea” as a lad of 15, and never once having lost his love for the sea; a member of the Methodist Society, gentlemanly in manner both with passengers and crew, and always most explicit in every command to his crew. His wife who with their two infant children accompanies him on this voyage is a daughter of a Methodist minister, the Rev. Mr. Yates, a charming, gracious lady though in somewhat delicate health for this voyage as her second child is born just the day before the “Triton” is to sail — or to be exact the ship's departure is delayed one day on this account! Mr. Buck, the Chief Officer, is the most outstanding of the entire crew, not only a onetime Methodist Class leader but an out-and-out Christian, who proved to be at all times of the greatest help to the passengers and certainly the Captain's right hand man; for he himself had held the rank of Captain on one of his earlier trips. It is safe to say that with one or two exceptions all the crew, 10 in number, are closely associated with the Methodist Society. So again humanly speaking every prospect pleases.

The days of preparation are quickly passing, and the evening of the Valedictory Service, 4th September, has come. In addition to its being the occasion of “Farewell” it is to be the Ordination Service for the young men recently received at Conference. The enthusiastic missionary interest apparent during Conference has in no way decreased, but rather has it spread and deepened, and a splendid congregation crowds St. Philip's Chapel, where the President of Conference, the Rev. Theophilus Lessey, conducts the Service, assisted by Rev. Dr. Jabez Bunting, one of the missionary secretaries. The service varies very little from the Ordination Services we know today: the singing is hearty; the prayers are heartfelt; the testimony of each young ordinand as he tells of his call to missionary work is a solemn occasion for all; “and suitable addresses of considerable length” we are told, are delivered by the President and Dr. Bunting, after which each ordinand is presented with a Bible, suitably inscribed (one at least, of which is to be seen in Trinity College Library).

Miss Buttle examines the log-book of the “Triton” at Trinity College.
(The picture of John Wesley is a rare steel engraving by Gainer).

CHAPTER TWO

The Voyage Begins

The date of departure is fixed for 12th September, from Bristol, and some of the passengers are hospitably entertained in the homes of Bristol Methodists as they await the departure. When the 12th dawns alas! the wind is contrary, and on assembling at the docks the passengers hear the word “tomorrow will be the day”. Tomorrow comes, and with it a fair wind, and our party assembles again, but yet another delay awaits them, for the word is given that as the Captain's wife has been confined and given birth to their second child, the order for sailing still stands for “tomorrow”! Saturday, 14th, dawns fair and fine and as our passengers look out towards the docks, there they see to their great relief that the “blue peter” is flying at the “Triton's” masthead — for this is the sign that the ship is ready to sail. One of the passengers tells us:- “There was considerable excitement in Bristol on the morning of our departure. Hackney coaches and other vehicles arrived in rapid succession from all parts of the city, bringing the missionaries and the friends with whom they had been staying; the vessel was much thronged by warm-hearted Wesleyans, and others, come for the last time to take leave of the “Triton” and of us, and to wish us God's speed.”

It, surely, is not very difficult, now some 125 years later, to enter into the spirit of excitement that morning. Punctually at 10 o'clock a tug takes the “Triton” in tow, and she moves slowly down the Channel, with a select company of friends on board - the President of Conference, Rev. Theophilus Lessey, several of the mission secretaries, Bristol laymen and their wives, and others. The visitors are taken on a tour of inspection, and all are convinced that everything possible has been done to ensure the comfort and safety of passengers and crew. In addition to the 12 to 14 months' provisions she carries, and the necessary stores for up to a four years' voyage, the “Triton” is entirely freighted with stores and presents for the various missions she will visit, and indeed the liberality of friends has so far exceeded the capacity of the vessel that many packages intended to be sent by her will have to be forwarded to Sydney by some other conveyance, and re-shipped on board the “Triton” when she has there discharged a part of her missionary cargo.

Sometime during the day, a service is held when the one-day-old infant of Captain and Mrs. Beatty, is baptised by Dr. Bunting. One of the crew, Tom Ingledew, impressed by the number of influential Wesleyans aboard, shows his missionary zeal, for almost as soon as the “Triton” moves from the wharf he brings a missionary box on deck, and placing it on the binnacle respectfully solicits donations from those present for the “Wesleyan Missionary Society”. He states that he himself had been among the heathen and can testify how greatly the Gospel is needed, adding that the Committee want £100,000 this year, and it is therefore necessary that everyone should lend a hand. After all present have subscribed he opens the lid and hands to the mission secretaries a handsome sum, the contents of the first missionary box on board the “Triton”. (Are there any of Torn Ingledew's descendants on our N.Z. Church Members' Roll today? What could not his timely zeal accomplish!)

The hour for the last Goodbyes has come, and at 4 o'clock as accompanying friends prepare to leave the ship, all gather round for the final words of prayer, and to sing together Charles Wesley's hymn: “Blest be the dear uniting love, that will not let us part” (No. 712 in our present-day Methodist Hymn Book), which we can understand was sung with more than usual feeling. Yes, it was a solemn and affecting moment long to be remembered. Those returning to the shore would often tell of that thrilling moment when they received the last parting cheer from those aboard the “Triton”, and watched the beautiful ship in the early evening light as she hastened away from them on her voyage of mercy, with all sails set and with her two large flags floating in the breeze; one, having a Union Jack in the corner, and for a motto “Glory to God in the Highest”, and the second bearing the inscription “The Wesleyan Missionary Society's Centenary Ship A.D. 1839”, beneath which was written the triumphant exclamation of the dying Founder of Methodism, “The Best of All God is With Us” (I like to think of those flags having been the work and donation of the ‘Women's Fellowships of those days!).

A thrilling sight seen from afar, but the immediate scene on board was not quite so thrilling, for our missionary party are inclined at first to give way to the emotion of the moment, and to indulge thoughts of grief and loneliness, and to use the phrase of one of them, “we just sat moping on deck in a most melancholy fashion”. However, this “moping on deck” soon had to cease, for the pangs of home-sickness are shortly overtaken by the equally distressing pangs of sea-sickness! And the passengers find their way to their cabins, there to hunt among the baggage for their cures. Essence of Ginger is Brother Buttle's sure cure - essence of peppermint another's; sedlitz powder; brandy and others, all are brought out, but alas! practically every cure fails to produce its imputed virtue!

Yes, the “Triton” has run into bad weather, and for the first few days out she encounters nothing but storm after storm, and quickly shows her propensity for that twisty, rocking motion held responsible for sea-sickness. The Captain and crew bravely carry on but make little headway, and after four days, as they are now no farther than Milford Haven, the Captain decides to seek temporary shelter here, and thankful indeed are the passengers for this haven of calm, and to know the feeling of good “terra firma” beneath their feet once again. The good Methodists here gladly arrange hospitality for the entire company to live on shore, and even hold missionary meetings, at one of which the “Triton's” Captain was persuaded to act as Chairman, which honour it was easily seen he did not appreciate! The offering at this meeting was a splendid one, amounting to £12. We may be sure that the enthusiastic Tom Ingledew saw that it went safely into the “Triton's” Missionary Box.

The delay here was longer than had been anticipated; some repairs and replacements and additional stores were found necessary, and it is 1st October before the “Triton” gets away. Within two days they meet with rough, stormy weather, quite as bad as they have already been through and now alas! they must face a truly awful predicament that may arise, for they are reduced to one life boat only, and that could never carry even its quota of 10 in such heavy seas as now they are experiencing!

‘We recall that the Committee in fitting out the “Triton” saw to it that she carried three boats. Well, when preparing for to sail, one had been left behind on account of so much cargo, and the second has been lost in the recent storms, so in very truth their only hope is the good Providence of God; throughout the whole voyage their faith in God is very real and never wavers.

They arrive in sight of Madeira Island on 14th October, and on 16th anchor in one of the Bays and the passengers are glad of the opportunity to go ashore — for Madeira is a quiet, peaceful, enchandng-looking spot. They receive quite an unexpected welcome, from Rev. Mr. Edwards, a Dissenting (the term of those years) Clergyman from Nottingham, here on a health-restoring holiday, who tells them that his eye had been attracted by their ensign bearing the text “Glory to God”, and so, conjecturing parsons of some sort must surely be on board, comes down to the ship and offers to do any service in his power. A gracious gesture, surely! The Harbour Master and the Health Officer go through their duties in a most perfunctory manner, the latter not even coming aboard the ship, but considers the inspection made as he sits in his boat, and the passengers simply line the side of the ship.

They remain a week here, and find much to interest them; visit a Cathedral, churches, monasteries and even a nunnery, but fail to be impressed by the type of service going on: to them they frankly admit “it appears a mockery of Divine Worship”. (I cannot see a company of young Methodist parsons being shown far inside a nunnery, a peep through an outside grill would be all they would see, methinks!). Let me describe to you a ride through the town, taken on horseback by six of the brethren — as they set off each horse is accompanied by its Portuguese owner, holding on to the horse's tail, “And I thought” (writes Brother Turton) “this was a test of strength between man and steed, so I let go and we galloped from one Street to another, uphill and down, until the poor man exhausted, began bawling most vociferously. I pulled in, thinking he was swearing!! And all the time he was just afraid I was running away with his horse, and he was determined to have his share of the tail! I learned that the Portuguese hostlers will run many a mile in this fashion with the greatest ease; having hitherto lost their horses when strangers have gone off with them they prefer this method!” So if our Methodist brethren were not much impressed by the Churchmen of Madeira, at least they were by the Portuguese hostlers!

They get away from Madeira on 23rd October; just in good time for them to prepare themselves in spirit for the great celebration to take place on 25th, for 25th October is the date named for Centenary Celebration throughout the Methodist Connexion. In accordance with the programme recommended in the Minutes of Conference, special services are held on the “Triton” both morning and afternoon, with special sermons preached by the “Triton's” special preachers, Rev. M. Archhill in the morning and Mr. Buddle in the afternoon. “The fact that we are sailing on the Centenary Ship in the Centenary Year gives added interest to our Devotions of this day” writes one. The crew are remembered in a truly special way, receiving an extra mess in the shape of goose and Plum pudding!”

CHAPTER THREE

South to Cape Town

Let's now look at a typical day's doings on the “Triton”. The day begins at 8 a.m. with the Bell for Morning Prayers; this service is conducted by the chaplain for the day (taken in turns); breakfast follows, consisting of strong burnt coffee, sad hot rolls, unpeeled potatoes, sea biscuits and cold salt beef. After breakfast, when weather is fine, there is time for a short stroll on deck, though walking the deck is quite out of the question (unless taken in turns); then the brethren get to their cabins for study, and for the women folk, there's needlework; reading and letters home to be written. 12 o'clock is lunch time, or as it was called in those days, “tiffin time”. At 1.30 the children and some of the adults have dinner, the others at 3 p.m. There is the difficulty of all getting into the dining saloon at the one time; some are fortunate and sit at the table, others have to sit on couches at either end (probably the “sofa” beds of the two single men mentioned earlier); and some on the medicine chest!

This is how Brother Turton describes things when he and his wife have their turn on the medicine chest:- “My wife and I sat on the medicine chest as being nearest to the centre of gravity in case of a lurch. This, however, found to be an inconvenient position as also being nearest to the centre of gravity, for being much lower than the table and situated at the end of it, if the ship happened to give a sudden roll, we were in danger of having the whole contents of the board, either liquid or solid, vegetables or animal, simple or compound, together with knives, forks, spoons, plates, glasses, and indeed the whole paraphernalia of the pantry safely deposited on our laps, since there was no possibility of evasion! And the casual occurrence of such an accident, by which we were all in turn the sufferers was such an agreeable break upon our usual monotony as fully to compensate for any little damage incurred.” At 5 o'clock each evening the bell rings again for prayers, and at 7 p.m. it's time for tea, or rather, supper; and at 10 p.m. sharp the monitor comes to see that every light is out whether the brethren are in bed or not!!

Remembering that this is a missionary company it is quite natural that they hold regular religious services, week days and Sundays; and according to Methodist custom the Sacrament of Holy Communion once a month, not forgetting sermon criticisms each Monday Evening! It was, however, with considerable difficulty their services were held at times. The weather, for one thing, was so very stormy in the early weeks of the voyage and sea-sickness so constant and severe. Listen:- “When practicable the services were held on deck with the binnacle for a pulpit, and the hen-coops for pews, but in bad weather we assembled in the saloon, and in spite of the heat this was the more preferable place, for on deck we were constantly annoyed by the poultry, who expressed their disapprobation of our proceedings by clucking and quacking and pecking our legs during the greater part of the divine service. The service on deck, one day, was just commencing and the hymn chosen was ‘Come, 0 Thou Traveller unknown' (339); they had just reached the line ‘With Thee all night I mean to stay' when down came the rain in torrents, driving the entire congregation down into the saloon with the very words on their lips, and there the service was continued. Another time, the Brother who was the Chaplain for the day, having had a poor night's rest was sound asleep when “eight bells” rang for morning service. On being aroused he hastily dressed, or rather half dressed, and the waiting congregation were truly convulsed with laughter to hear him announce the hymn ‘Awake my soul and with the sun, Thy daily stage of duty run; Shake off dull sloth, and joyful rise, To pay thy morning sacrifice'. Most of his congregation had been awake for hours and the sun had already arisen some 40 degrees above the horizon.

It proved very difficult also to pursue their study in their confined quarters, remembering also there are 8 children aboard (as far as South Africa) and one a new-born babe. Just think of the confusion and din! But their sense of cheerful good humour persisted amidst all their trials and tribulations, and they planned many innocent amusements.

It was decided that a weekly paper should be issued, “The Triton Observer”, with Brother Buttle as Editor, and Brother Wilson sub-Editor, to appear on Friday evenings. But alas! it only lived for 3 issues (human nature being just the same then as now); someone wrote a letter to the “Triton Observer” on the “Propriety of Dress on board Ship”, and somebody else was so hurt by the remarks contained in this letter, that it was deemed wise for the “Triton Observer” to cease publication!

So we see most of their time seems to have been spent in study and in religious services. It is interesting to find the crew, especially the Captain, are regular in attendance at the services, but not a little incongruous to read in the brethren's diaries from time to time, that the crew have become most unruly and difficult, and there is even mention of the word drunkenness and need for strict measures being taken!

Early in November the “Triton” approaches the region of the tropics, and on the 4th she experiences a tornado: “Without a moments warning a tremendous squall came up, accompanied by torrents of rain, with heavens black as midnight; the sea rose instantly, and then in the space of an hour wind arid rain ceased and sky bright and clear. We had often wished to ‘meet in' with a tornado, but after such a sample as we had we never wished to see another. We crossed the Equator about noon on Wednesday, 20th November; being a missionary ship the ‘ceremonies of the line' were dispensed with for the most part; just a few buckets of salt water were tipped over the heads of unsuspecting brethren as they happened to ascend on deck. The glories of the rising and setting sun as seen as we neared the Equator were just as every voyager sees and beyond description, they must be viewed to be realised. The heat of the day was not as great as we had expected, but the night was most to be dreaded; not enough air to keep the cabins cool, so that the feeling was one of being thrown into an oven for roasting!”

And now ship-board life having treated the brethren to many a thrilling adventure, what with raging storms and lost life-boats, days and nights of suffocating heat and the recent terrifying tornado, what can be yet in store for them:- “On 22nd December, our Sabbath was interrupted very early in the morning by the near approach of a Brig. She had been seen on the previous evening by the watch, manoeuvring about in a suspicious manner, and now was seen to be bearing down upon us in a direct line. About 6.30 a.m. we noticed her flag was the Portuguese Ensign and Pennant; and a boat was put off rowed by blacks, in the stern was seated a tall, mustachioed, vulgar sort of a gentleman, dressed in shabby-fine uniform, and whose countenance evinced no kind of sympathy whatever with the better feelings of our nature. We, that is the men folk of our party, were all assembled at the ship's side, spreading ourselves out from stem to stern so as to produce an imposing sight as to numbers, even the steward had to leave his pantry, and the cook his galley, and the cabin boy his little domestic duties to attend the general muster.

  “At length, the foreigner came close, mounted on to the deck, attended by a seaman as interpreter. When he began addressing Capt. Beatty in some queer tongue or other, he presented himself as a Lieutenant and his ship as a Portuguese Brig-of-War, carrying troops and bound for some port of South America, and other rigmarole of a similar character. All this was evidently false for she was not of the right build for a gun-ship, nor had she more than one single porthole in her whole length, nor were there more than 3 men to be seen on her decks; and as to her course the wind was directly fair for the Brazils, whereas on leaving us she sailed away in the direction of Africa and was seen at noon from the mast-head, still keeping to the East! And not only so but although our naval visitant had delivered himself through the medium of one of the ‘learned languages', yet when he came to note down in a book with official formality the information we had given him, queer enough to tell it happened to be in the ‘Queen's English', as one of the brethren discovered by slyly peeping over the Lieutenant's shoulders!

  “It was the opinion of all that for once we had come across a Pirate, and we were left in a state of suspense as to the probable course which would be adopted after the officer should reach his ship. And we ourselves were in a state of the greatest helplessness; all our arms and ammunition being stowed away under the cargo; yet we felt the disposition to defend ourselves, in the case of emergency though we had not been much accustomed to fight. At any rate, we were very glad to lose the opportunity, and as the Brig hove round and sailed away she had our best prayers for a fair wind and speedy passage to a more distant latitude. The next day was spent in clearing a way to the arsenal; in oiling old rusty muskets, in getting out and adjusting long and short boarding pikes, and in making all other preparations for a stout defence in case the Lieutenant and his ‘Brig-of-War' should again make their appearance.” (Not for our “Triton” brethren faith without works!).

With this adventure behind them, the brethren now prepare themselves for Christmas and New Year celebrations. First, there is the Love Feast on Christmas Eve; then the two services on Christmas Day, and the solemn Watch Night Service on New Year's Eve, so the Bell calling them to worship is more than usually busy this week, It is a fact worth noticing, in passing, that the “Triton's” Bell was founded from that of Kingswood School (the “Alma Mater” of some on board) and that Bell had been originally cast from the Epworth Church Bell — so memories were stirred every time the call to worship sounded out. The Love Feast; the first and only one held on this voyage, had a memorable significance. Three of the sailors in giving their testimony make mention of how they had been brought to Christ through the influence of their Class Leader; and that Class Leader was none other than Mr. Buck - the “Triton's” present first mate, whose influence they testify is as strong now as it had been then! Christmas Day finds them becalmed 1200 miles off the coast of Africa with Brothers Appleyard and Buttle as preachers for the day. And at the most solemn New Year's Eve Watch Night service all renewed their Consecration vows, as they passed into 1840.

CHAPTER FOUR

African Interlude

On the morning of 3rd January “Land in Sight!” was reported from the Bridge, and excitement ran high as the land sighted was said to be in the neighbourhood of Saldanha Bay, about 60 miles to the north-west of Cape Town, and it was confidently expected that the passengers would land next day. What excitement! After more than 3 months of ship-board life in the “Triton”! However, their high hopes were dashed, for that evening a gale blew up (the dreaded Sou' Easter of these regions) and drove them farther from land, as well as tossing and rolling them about in true “Triton” fashion with consequent results; until at last the Captain in sheer desperation decided to risk an entrance into the uncharted Saldanha Bay, and by clever manoeuvring got his ship safely anchored in a cove of the Bay; and here they sheltered for some days.

They had run short of provisions, and of fresh water, so the Captain and some of the brethren went ashore hoping to find some dwellings, or maybe a village, but were disappointed, though they learned from a fisherman there were a few Dutch farmers round about with a British Resident to take care of them, but what could be his duties they wondered? Next day, another few brethren went off with a fisherman to guide them, to find the British Residency, this being some 3 miles distant. They found it a very poor miserable establishment but were hospitably entertained and as they did not return till late, and dark had fallen they were unable to discover their anchorage, and so were obliged to spend the night on the beach, making a tent of their up-turned boat, and there they lay too hungry to sleep! However, they had learned of a Dutch farmer, some miles farther on where they were more likely to replenish their larder, so next day set off, and here they were well rewarded and returned to the “Triton” well laden - a few sheep, a calf, a goodly supply of fresh vegetables — all carried slung over their shoulders, and appearing in this fashion on their return they received shouts of welcome from those eagerly awaiting them!!

It was only after many unsuccessful attempts that the Captain managed to get his ship out of Saldanha Bay and safely anchored in Table Bay: she had not been long at anchor before her Missionary Colours were recognised by friends on shore, who had been anxiously awaiting the coming of the “Triton” for at least 2 months, and now lost no time in coming out to greet her passengers. The Rev. T. L. Hodson, the Methodist Missionary stationed at Cape Town, came aboard, and gave all a hearty welcome, and a most cordial invitation for all to breakfast at the Mission house where Mrs. Hodson had prepared a good breakfast, which needless to say was most heartily enjoyed.

Arrangements were immediately made for all to be entertained on shore in Methodist homes during the “Triton's” stay in port, and having spent so long a time in the somewhat cramped conditions of ship-board accommodation this time of “home-life” was much appreciated. Once on shore they found themselves in a complete change of conditions: “The jetty was crowded with goods of all kinds, and men of all colours, countries and characters. What with the shipping and landing of merchandise, the rumbling of waggons, the cracking of whips, the shouts of the boatmen and all the confusion of tongues - African, Eastern and Continental - the noise and jargon was complete, and should have served as a scene to relieve the stupor and monotony of a long tropical voyage like ours, but for the depressing thought that most of its actors were without God and without hope in the world. We now felt for the first time to be treading Missionary Ground.” It is here they leave Rev. & Mrs. Archbell and family and Rev. & Mrs. Appleyard, to commence their work.

For the others it is a time of sight-seeing and visiting places of interest, of which they found many. Cape Town they describe as a beautiful and delightful place with a large population, made up of many nationalities - English, Dutch. Malayans, Chinese and others - with well-built stone buildings, plenty of shops, warehouses, public buildings, and no lack of churches and chapels, but religion, they felt to be at a low ebb. They did attend some services in other than Methodist Chapels (of which there were 2 in Cape Town), but apparently they were not impressed by the preaching they heard, mainly I gather because in those day Methodists were most intolerant of a “read” sermon! They were induced to visit a Mohammedan place of worship (commonly called a “Mosque” but actually no more than a common unfurnished room) and witnessed a service lasting 2 hours, which was full of movement and repeated prostrations of the body and hasty ejaculation of certain forms of prayer and much chandng, but which left our Methodist brethren completely unmoved. Methodism had already done much good in Cape Town, and under the kind and active Superintendency of Rev. Mr. Hodson the Society was continuing to grow. Out-of-door preaching had been established, and during their stay the “Triton” brethren took their part in this form of service, but not always without disturbance!

As they go about sightseeing they notice many differences in the manner of life, and of dress, in these Cape Town people from what they had been accustomed to in the Homeland. “Hats and bonnets,” they write, “are seldom worn, though sometimes a gay scarf is worn as head dress, but most often the head is left bare to be struck by the sun, or covered with sand and dust, from the notable ‘Sou' Easter'. Most of the Europeans wear the broad Manilla hat, whilst the many Malayans keep to their turbans; black hats are not advocated in this sultry climate, not only because of their tendency to absorb the rays of the sun, but for their weight and lack of ventilation. To go out in a black hat on a very hot day is like putting your head into an oven, and if attempted most always ends in an intolerable sick headache and sometimes in something much more serious.

The heat, not extreme except at the noon day hour, when most of the shops are closed, the streets deserted, and the inhabitants retire to rest until about 3 p.m. This system seems to suit the Dutch constitution well, or rather they adapt themselves to it with perfect resignation and good will, but for ourselves we found it more profitable to engage in reading, writing, music, and other in-door attractions. The ‘Sou' Easter' generally springs up about noon, and blows with great violence, covering the whole town with a cloud of dust, then dies down again and away by evening, leaving a very refreshing coolness in the atmosphere. The shops are again opened, and the public walks, squares and gardens are thronged.”

Amidst the delights of sightseeing, however, the brethren found much to give them cause for concern. They could not fail to notice that the black-skinned folk were a despised and disregarded people; though on visiting an Infant School belonging to the Methodist Society there they found boys and girls of different races cared for as “one” and surely, they thought, this fact must have an influence in the days to come of at least lessening those ideas of superior caste.

A small cottage hospital they found, some miles out of the town, and here were many smallpox patients, for this scourge had just found its way to Cape Town and for fear of infection, the surrounding ground was flagged to show it was dangerous to approach; and though the brethren might wish to visit and pray with the patients, they were not permitted to enter.

One morning very early, 5 a.m., they set out to visit the Barrack Yards, where more than 700 slaves, men, women and children were congregated. Having been liberated from captured vessels, these poor creatures without any interpreter to tell them what was happening were about to be apprenticed out for a term of years to different farmers and tradesmen in the neighbourhood — and their pitiful dejected appearance was a heart-rending sight.

Against all this, however, there was the joy of fellowship with the Cape Town Methodists; and to find one who had emigrated not long since from Barnsley, Yorkshire, brought untold joy to some of our brethren — “to meet with a man in the Southern Hemisphere who knew anything of Yorkshire, loved Yorkshire!” (Brother Buttle came from Snaith, Yorkshire, not far from Barnsley). Nor would they ever forget their visits to the grape orchards; the grapes here are cultivated according to the French method, and for a small sum one can obtain as many as one wishes; in fact they are so cheap and plentiful that they are served on the table with every meal!

CHAPTER FIVE

From Cape Town to Hobart Town

After a stay of 3 weeks they board the “Triton” once more and on 13th February they sail out of ‘Table Bay, with Flags flying, a helpful Sou' Easter blowing and prospects good! As we have already mentioned some of the crew had been most difficult; even unruly at times, and Captain Beatty had deemed it wise to pay off some as soon as they reached Cape Town, and had been busy during the days in port, in finding others to replace them, and fortunately met with good success; for all reports make mention that for the rest of the voyage a much better spirit pervaded the whole ship's company. We have to remember also that in saying Goodbye to the Revs. & Mrs. Archbell and Appleyard at Cape Town, they also farewelled six Archbell children, so there was more room on the “Triton” and much less noise and confusion; and all felt a calm, hallowing influence in their meetings which they had not known before.

The fact, too, that as the days went by they were getting nearer to the scene of their missionary work gave impetus to their study and the prayerful preparation of themselves. They had not left all storms behind them, however, for very early after leaving port they ran into a violent storm, and tempestuous seas which caused the “Triton” to start her rolling andcs and sent the passengers to their berths.

But among the crew taken on at Cape Town was a new steward — a native from the West Indies —- and he proved a great help to all in the storm “for every evening he would continue to keep as much fire in the galley as would boil a large saucepan of gruel, for it was a correct opinion of his that a farinaceous diet was by far the best in cases of seasickness, and this he would bring from cabin to cabin. A good-natured fellow and very attentive to our wants, and had he been a little more cleanly in his habits he would have fared the better with our Captain who of all men in the world, could not bear to see the least negligence in that department of the service.”

Apart from this one violent storm “The Triton” apparently was favoured with good weather for sailing conditions for the rest of the voyage to Tasmania, and in every way it was a quiet uneventful time for the passengers, only one ship sighted during the whole 44 days sailing time. Without outside excitement and away from the enervating heat of the tropics it was much easier to settle to their daily studies. Brother Buddle got busy with his Greek, and undertook quite a number of lectures on subjects appropriate to those times. Their chief interest and delight now was in star gazing! “On clear evenings, we were blessed with a view of the heavens, and found objects enough in the rising stars and constellations to attract our deepest study and conversation and certainly all were impressed with the fact that the celestial Glory of the Southern Hemisphere is transcendently superior to that of the Northern.”

In the early hours of Saturday, 4th April, the passengers are awakened out of sleep by the voice of the man on watch announcing in his loudest voice - “Hullo there! land in sight,” and in no time all are on deck to see the long-wished for sight, Van Diemens Land, where they are to be joined by the Rev. John Waterhouse, General Superintendent of the Methodist South Sea Missions. They reckon they should be on shore within a few hours, but - and there always seems to be a “but” where the “Triton” is concerned — when they are within 8 miles of the shore the breeze dies down, and here they are left becalmed for a further 3 days! ‘This was no small trial of patience for crew and passengers alike, and they grew weary of gazing on the scenery, beautiful as it was. Knowing full well how eagerly the Methodists of these parts must be awaiting their arrival, or probably had ceased to expect them at all, fearing no doubt that the “Triton” must have been shipwrecked, as other vessels which had left Bristol much later than the “Triton” had come and gone long before she put in an appearance! However, on 7th April, a pilot comes on board, up the Derwent River sails the “Triton” and before evening is safely anchored in Sullivan's Cove.

Not long at anchor before the curiosity of all on shore is aroused by the sight of that large Flag at the masthead with its inscription in gold lettering of, “Glory to God in the Highest”. The appearance of such a flag, with such a motto floating aloft amidst the shipping of a mercantile port was as perplexing as unique. But it told the good news to the Hobart Methodists that here at last was surely the “Triton”, and Revs. John Waterhouse and Nathanael Turner are soon on board bringing most affectionate and hearty greetings. John Waterhouse was known to the “Triton” brethren, as it was not much more than 18 months since he had left England for his appointment as General Superintendent of the Methodist South Sea Missions. But Nathanael Turner they had not met, and as he had but recently returned from New Zealand and the Pacific Islands after years of missionary service there they felt immediately drawn to him. “His copper-coloured, care-worn sexagenerian-looking visage easily bespoke the amount of service he had done on the Mission Fields; and to us he appeared to be like a man from another world. The Apostle of Polynesia — where he was busily engaged in his Master's work almost before we were born, and it was quite a treat to look upon his peaceful and devoted countenance, nor could we stem the aspiration that our future lives might be as sacred as his.”

As at Cape Town so here at Hobart the brethren are entertained in the homes of generous-hearted Methodists; and those staying at the Mission House with Nathanael Turner and his family valued greatly the opportunity of being under the care of an old New Zealand Missioner whose advice and information concerning the work was most valuable. With the town as well as the people the brethren were immediately in love, for it was so truly English, with its broad streets of stone, brick buildings, churches, chapels, warehouses, offices, stores and private dwellings, surrounded on all sides with wide open country, and the River Derwent lends greatly to the beauty as it winds in and out amidst most picturesque scenery.

There are signs of prosperity on every side; the Methodists hold a valuable property in Melville Street, where a chapel is in course of erection although the old one is still quite large and very pleasing; here, too, is a large well-conducted Day School, and with 2 other Wesleyan chapels in the town, Hobart town Christians have no reason to complain! In these chapels our “Triton” brethren engage in the Sunday and week night services during their stay, and are all present at special missionary meetings in the chapels of some of the out-lying districts, these meetings being held in honour of the “Triton” company and especially to bid farewell to the highly respected Bishop and Pastor, the Rev. John Waterhouse, who was to sail in the “Triton” on his extended mission to the Polynesian Islands.”

These meetings most took the form of a “Tea Meeting” — that typically Methodist gathering, so well-loved by the “Triton” company that they were heard to exclaim with glee — “just like a bit of England once more'.”

The Easter Season had now arrived, 17th April being Good Friday, and there were special services in all the Methodist Chapels here both on Good Friday and Easter Day, when “our” brethren were privileged to lead the worship. Easter Monday brought an Anniversary Gathering of Sunday School children, they gathered at the Mission House, and after some hours spent in answering questions of the catechism and hearing an address they were then regaled out-of-doors with tea and buns! And to finish up the day there was another Public Tea Meeting (What! Two in one week! Remarkable Methodist Women!) held in the new chapel premises and attended by a large crowd, and under the Chairmanship of John Waterhouse, speeches were given by all the “Triton” brethren and also by Captain Beatty and Mr. Buck, the First Mate.

It was known that the “Triton” would sail any day; opportunity was taken at this gathering to bid one another Goodbye, and for the “Triton” brethren to express gratitude for all the kindness and hospitality they had enjoyed during their 14 days' stay at Hobart-town. “We had been busy for some days,” they say, “laying in a 12 months' stock of provisions, such as flour, tea, coffee, sugar, salt, etc. As Hobart-town had become the missionary depot for the South Seas, many of the “Triton's” stores, cables and the like were left here for future use so that sufficient room was made for our heavy goods with which the vessel was trimmed before we left harbour.”

  “We were now expecting, according to the original itinerary to sail for Sydney thence to New Zealand. However, on the night previous to sailing, a meeting of the brethren and the Captain was convened in Mr. Waterhouse's parlour when for certain reasons there stated and considered it was finally determined that we should sail on the morrow direct for New Zealand. Such a decision as might be expected came like a thunder-clap to the ears of a few of the company who had been dilatory in shopping: indeed it was rather a perplexing sound to us all, for there were many little indispensable articles which we had purposely left to be obtained at Sydney. The meeting broke up at 10 p.m., and there we were from that hour till midnight, sailing about the town in all directions, rousing up the shopkeepers, ransacking their stores, and from the sharp looks which some of them kept over our movements, subjecting ourselves no doubt to the awkward suspicion of being well-dressed London sharpers! We secured, however, most of the things we wanted, and what we could not obtain, we were obliged to determine to do without. And certainly man's real wants are very few, as we have often since then had to prove in our missionary experiences.”

CHAPTER SIX

Journey's End

At dawn, next day, the renowned “Blue Peter” was to be seen at the masthead of the “Triton”, so no time could be lost as the passengers prepared for the departure. A cart had been engaged to call at the different homes of hospitality to pick up the luggage and convey it to the ship, while the passengers quickly followed, snatching just enough time to post an abundance of mail for England! They were soon all safe on board the “Triton” and with them came Mrs. Waterhouse and some of the children and Mr. Waterhouse Senior and Nathanael Turner, together with a few of the leading Methodists of the town; who were invited by Captain Beatty to dine on board and travel a short way down the Derwent River. It was about 4 o'clock in the afternoon when the time came for the guests to return to shore again, and with the usual procedure of a hymn being sung (this time it was “From all that dwell below the skies, Let the Creator's praise arise”) and prayer offered, the last Goodbyes were said, and with the sound of the grand old British Three Cheers filling the air, the “Triton” once again set off for the ocean.

After having enjoyed a fortnight of uninterrupted good weather, all our travellers were hoping this would continue and so make the crossing to New Zealand a calm and enjoyable one. But this was not to be, for by next morning (23rd April) the “Triton” was in trouble and her passengers, for the most part, confined to their cabins. The winds continued to increase in fury, and by Sunday the sickness of all was so severe that the services for the day had to be abandoned, though some managed to appear at the morning and evening prayer meetings. Mr. Waterhouse, did his best as General Superintendent to get among the brethren and consult with them concerning the missionary work awaiting them, giving them excellent advice and certainly encouraging them by his example, “and never was a father more beloved by his children than was that apostolic man by every member of the ship's company.” The wind continued to blow in fury for a whole week without any cessation, and by Sunday, 3rd May, the “Triton” was within 100 miles of the New Zealand coast. Though the gale was at its height at the hour for morning service, Mr. Waterhouse thought fit to attempt to held service, but to conduct and preach he was forced to remain seated and to keep firm hold to the cabin table.

  “We had a whole day of tossing,” they tell us, “our position was truly awful, seas, mountains high; every sail furled and driving with bare poles in the trough of the sea, expecting every succeeding billow to burst over the ship and sink us into Eternity. The Captain, officers and crew were manifestly alarmed, and when such is the case it is but a poor omen for mere landsmen like ourselves. At times scarcely a word was uttered, but every eye anxiously fixed on every fresh surge as it rose until the next swell of the ocean should heave us high upon its bosom and bear us beyond the reach of its rage. The experienced hand of the First Mate firmly grasped the wheel, every motion of which might prove fatal in an instant, unless at the command of a skilful and vigilant eye: for we were new steering not by the wind but by the waves. But the hand of the Lord was over us for good. The gale blew at last with such a ferocity (for so it appeared) as actually to subdue and beat down the tremendous sea which it had raised so that before evening we were enabled to hoist the lower sails and steer a more easterly course; it was thought prudent, however, to ‘lie to' during the night. All through the day we had clearly discerned the hand of God in our preservation from danger, so it was natural that at 8 o'clock that night, before we retired to rest, we should gather together for a prayer meeting in the cabin, and surely gratitude to God was never more deeply felt than by the ‘Triton' company that night.

“Next morning the wind had dropped considerably and quite early a voice from the masthead announced ‘Land ahead! Land ahead!', and sure enough we got our first sight of New Zealand which proved to be the Camel's Mount on the North west coast of N.Z., about 25 miles distant. We made steady progress during the day and by nightfall the fires on shore were clearly seen but now for 2 days (“Triton”-like) we were all but becalmed off Whangape Harbour, but what with the tide and the sea breeze we were able to arrive off the Hokianga River on 7th May, and here we were totally becalmed within sight of our destination. We had so often been in this state and endured, but now we could no longer endure, so lowering the boats, the missionaries and the crew vied with each other in towing the ‘Triton' a distance of 10 miles so as to be ready to cross the much-dreaded bar with the sea breeze at the time of high water.

“We looked anxiously for the flag staff and the signals on which we were to depend, but it was barely discernible by the aid of a glass and not a sign of a pilot. We at once concluded that the volunteer flag-master was engaged, as usual, in his revels, and so we prepared to find our way over the bar as best we could: we touched the bank once in our passage and were speedily in deep water, being the first vessel that had ever ventured in with an ebb tide; which after all was done in ignorance rather than from choice. And now our troubles began - the wind suddenly shifted to the East and came blowing fresh down the river, so that we must either cast anchor, we knew not where (for it became dark all at once), or be driven back again on the bar where at that state of the tide we must have gone to pieces. The anchor was accordingly let go but it was soon discovered to drag and the vessel driving towards the rocks near the North Head, by the force of the ebb tide, which was now running at the rate of 5 knots per hour. The water was now pretty rough, but Mr. Waterhouse (never daunted!) was determined to risk it and pull ashore to look for the Pilot.

The Captain tried to dissuade him urging that he would be carried and brethren tried to dissuade him urging that he would be carried out to sea by the stream, but the natives whom he had brought with us from Hobart-town said they could avoid that and Mr. Waterhouse was therefore resolved to try, and with one of the brethren as steersman and another as crew we descended into the boat and passed safely through the rough water, crept closely round the Point and were soon out of the influence of the tide. We had not gone far up the river before we met 2 boats, one with Rev. John Hobbs of Newark Station, and the other with a Captain Young who generally acts as Pilot, during the incapacity of the regular officer. Upon enquiry he (the Pilot) was said to be ‘ill in bed', as he certainly was but this was really only saying in other words that he was ‘dead drunk'. Our Pilot, Captain Young, apprehended that the “Triton” was upon the rocks and certainly she was not many yards off. The Kedges were immediately carried out, the anchor was weighed, and by means of 2 additional boats, well manned, the vessel was soon brought into the channel and by 10 o'clock was safely anchored in the River off the Newark Mission Station, a distance of about 5 miles from the Heads.

7th May, 1840, 10 p.m.

7th May, 1965, almost 10 p.m. 125 years have gone by! We've left our sailing ships and their ways and days far behind; now we fly the skies or rather are jet propelled here and there. I would ask your pardon, Mr. President, that I dared suggest we might commemorate this Triton's Arrival, in the way we have this night save that I bid you to recall that the “Triton” was the Methodist Missionary Society's Centenary Ship A.D.1839 - the gift of British Methodism to the Methodist South Seas Mission. ‘We, who were that Mission, were young then, we could not stand alone and we owe much to the Mother Country and Mother Church that we do well to acknowledge. Nor can we ever acknowledge too often the debt we owe to those brave young men and women of the early years, who at God's Call left home and kinsfolk, and surroundings of comfort and culture, and entrusting themselves to little ships, such as our “Triton”, to bring them away over the ocean, brought the Good News of the Gospel to our Maori Race, and thus played their part in making this land to be the greatly-favoured land we enjoy today. Truly we have a good heritage!

Our last word must be of our ship. The darkness is quickly gathering round her as she rides safely at anchor in the Hokianga River; all the ship's company gather on deck, as John Hobbs, having satisfied himself that all danger is past pushes off for the shore, taking John Waterhouse with him for the night. The others, stand awhile to gaze at the star-lit sky, and offer prayers of gratitude to God for His Great Goodness in bringing them safe to their desired haven.

Our eyes follow their gaze upward, and by the light of the stars we catch our last glimpse of the “Triton's” flags, flying bravely at her masthead - there's the white ensign, with the Union Jack of old England in one corner, and her “Glory to God in the Highest”, and the other with its inscription telling who she is and underneath in bold, clear letters those words which from journey's start to journey's end she has proved to be true:

  “The Best of All — God is with us.”

Epilogue

The “Triton” remains at Hokianga for the next two weeks, (during which time Revs. Mr. Waterhouse, and Buddle, and possibly some of the other newcomers, visit Manungu and Waima, and rejoice the hearts of John Hobbs, J. H. Bumby, Jas. Buller, John Warren and others, who have waited their coming for so long. Hear what J. H. Bumby writes to the Home Secretaries:- “Manungu, 12th May, 1840. It is impossible to convey upon paper anything like a correct idea of the ‘raru raru', as the natives say, i.e. the bustle and confusion that prevail at present at Manungu. I cannot allow the opportunity to pass without informing you, how after weeks and months of distressing suspense and anxiety our eyes were refreshed and our hearts gladdened by the arrival of the long-expected ‘Triton' with her ‘precious cargo' all alive and well.”

All embark again on 19th May, but “Triton-like” they await a fair wind and do not get away till 23rd when with Rev. J. H. Bumby accompanying them they sail for Kawhia, where Rev. John Whiteley eagerly awaits them, and to his care Mr. Waterhouse commits the six N.Z. missionaries, and he in due time, sends them off to their appointed stations. The “Triton” sails on for Fiji and Tonga, where appointments are awaiting the Revs. Williams, Wilson and Kevern, and then returns to Tasmania to pick up the stores, etc., left there earlier in the year.

For the next six years the “Triton” continues her journeys round the N.Z. coast, and to and fro the Pacific Islands and it was said “she proves of essential service from every point of view”. But eventually she is forced to give way for another; the many batterings and rough crossings of the Tasman have taken their toll, “the ‘Triton' is sold, by auction in April, 1847, for £900; and the ‘John Wesley' takes her place. At the time of her sale, Capt. Lilewall is her Master, and it may be of interest to our readers to know Capt. Lilewall's grave is to be found in the Symonds Street Cemetery, Auckland; though it is doubtful if the wording on the stone is still decipherable.

The “John Wesley” was said to be a larger and better-equipped vessel. Maybe, maybe, but still we stand at salute and hold in the highest regard the little 119-ton “Triton” if for nought else than her splendid behaviour, under the skilled hands of Capt. Beatty and Chief Officer Buck as she weathered the stormy Tasman on the last long week of her maiden voyage; even submitting at last to the indignity of being towed over the dreaded Hokianga Bar and that on an ebb tide; then left well-nigh dashed to pieces on the rocks, but for the action of the never-daunted John Waterhouse, and the timely aid of John Hobbs and Capt. Young — plus, always that same plus, “God With Us”.